The Cabernet Society | Loic Avril & Yuki Hirose MS
From our table to yours, a collection of five decades of moments with the Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon as shared by our Cabernet Society in celebration of the 50th vintage release.
Author | Loic Avril, Head of Wine, Lucas Group
For me the uniqueness comes from the place that is Margaret River. Not only from a geographical point of view, but also from the region’s emphasis on quality. It’s also the mildness of the climate. Perth is very warm, and you think Western Australia is very warm and dry, but as soon as you're in Margaret River, there's such a picturesque aspect of greenery, and a microclimate that really defines this region. That was what struck me, in terms of Margaret River, and at Vasse Felix.
The factors that make this Cabernet special? First, Vasse Felix are the pioneers, or some of the pioneers of Margaret River, producing early Cabernets and Chardonnays in this part of the world, that define great history. So it’s first, the story. Two, is that the pocket of Margaret River is unique. Three, is the dedication of early pioneers, like Vasse Felix, who encouraged a community of people to grow some of the finest Cabernets and Chardonnays in the world. That for me, is unique.
From my point of view, I really think that by not traveling to this region, you don't understand the Margaret River style. You're only reading Cabernet and Chardonnay. But by visiting the region, you really see why Margaret River or Vasse Felix Cabernets are some of the finest in the world. This is the way I look at it.
I think in terms of vintages, I think '93, '94, '97 would be some of my vintages to look at in the catalogue of all vintages. The vintages in the 90s, for me, are the key vintages that really show that [Margaret River Cabernet] is age worthy. They have such great acidity, and low alcohol, that sometimes we're not expecting from Australia. Also, just the quality, the beauty, and there’s an element of ‘Bordeaux-esque’ that is there. You don't see it in a glass in other Cabernet that I see, from let's say South Australia or even in the old days in Victoria. So yes, '93, '94, '97 will be some of the key vintages I will look for.
Why do I like to introduce Margaret River? First and foremost, a key reason would be as a Cabernet for wine drinkers that love Bordeaux or Napa. And two, because these wines are great for a consumer to buy early, keep in their cellars and age for years. They’re going to always deliver the best aspects of what you can see in Bordeaux, or perhaps what you can see in Burgundy for Chardonnay.
There's a good acidity level in the wines, a great tannin structure, and I think there is a broader diversity of vineyard, aspect, and geology in this region, that really brings Margaret River to be unique, in my opinion.
What is also very important to consider, is that in Margaret River, they are not scared to look at the new days and experimentation, for example with the no-oak movement. Grapes that are grown in Margaret River really show your oak influence and how it shapes a wine, and I think there’s not many regions that are trying to challenge that. And I think Vasse Felix is one of the key wineries, where they’re really looking outside of the box, at how to produce wines with less interventions, showcasing the value of raw or naked grapes, out of the vines.
Author | Yuki Hirose MS, Sommelier, Lucas Group
Whenever I hear the name of Vasse Felix, Virginia pops up in my head because I associate the wines with her – she’s been there forever and is inspiring with her conversation and energy. I still remember at Rockpool, years ago when I first met her, and I didn’t know much, thinking that the wines are great, but how she talks about regions and philosophies sticks in my mind quite clearly. She always brings the same energy, and I always learn something new. Even if I already know it, hearing from Virginia brings it to life.
Margaret River Cabernet is great value. It’s got consistency. Yes, there is vintage variation, but overall, each winery has established styles, however it’s always consistent, which is good for a person dining in a restaurant. In Margaret River I trust the producers, I know what to expect, and the wines deliver. You could say that is predictable, but I think to consistently produce high quality at a moderate price point is something not many regions can do.
Australia is a Shiraz-driven country, and Cabernet Malbec comes second. I am much more excited by Margaret River than other regions. It’s not small, but not big. I quite like the Cabernet. If I have the choice of Shiraz or Cabernet, 9 times out of 10, I’ll jump on Cabernet.
More on 50 Years of Margaret River Cabernet here.